Have you ever planned a bucket-list trip… and the views just vanish?
That was us in Glacier National Park back in 2020—a dream destination wrapped in wildfire haze. Fast forward four years, and Glacier decided to show off like, “Oh… you wanted mountains? Say less.” 😄
Hey everyone—we’re Debi & Matt from Rolling with the Curves. We’re proud Alliance RV owners (aka “Allies”), seasonal/part-time RVers, and full-time daydreamers once winter locks our rig away in the Appalachian foothills of Southeast Ohio. Our 2021 Alliance Paradigm 310RL is tucked in for the season, and until the campground gates reopen around April 15, we’re doing what a lot of you are doing too: reliving the best trips… and plotting the next ones.
Today we’re sharing two very different Glacier adventures: the Smoky Trip (2020) and the Redemption Trip (2024)—and honestly, the contrast still feels unreal.
Why Glacier National Park Is So Special (Quick Hits)
- Established: 1910 (one of America’s early national parks)
- Water everywhere: Over 700 lakes in the park (and only about 131 are named)
- Trail paradise: 700+ miles of hiking trails
- Streams for days: Hundreds of rivers and streams lace through the landscape
- Carved by ice: This terrain was shaped by ancient glaciers over thousands of years
Glacier is the kind of place that makes you feel tiny—in the best way. Even when you can’t see it (which… brings us to 2020).
Glacier 2020: “America’s Alps”… in Black & White
We rolled into West Glacier RV Park in September 2020—pre-Alliance days, pre-“Ally” life—with that dream trip energy. The campground was awesome: level full-hookup sites, spotless facilities, and steps from the historic entrance once tied to the Great Northern Railway era—when rail travel helped put Glacier on the map as “America’s Alps.”
But 2020 had other plans. Wildfire smoke drifted in from far away and swallowed the valley in gray. The mountains? Gone. Lake McDonald? A muted silver sheet. Going-to-the-Sun Road? Hidden like it was under witness protection.
And then… Glacier introduced itself anyway.
A black bear wandered calmly across the road—unbothered, completely at home—like the park was saying, “Welcome to my world.”
Lake McDonald: Familiar, But Completely Transformed
Lake McDonald is usually that jaw-dropping turquoise you see on postcards. In 2020, it was still and silver, and the famous colorful rocks near the shoreline were muted under smoky light. The mountains that should have framed everything? Invisible. It felt like Glacier was holding back… saving its full beauty for later.
Logan Pass + the Highline Trail: Terrifying and Amazing
We reached Logan Pass near the Continental Divide—home to one of those mind-bending places where water can ultimately flow toward different oceans (the “rooftop of North America” vibe is real). In 2020, we saw basically none of it… just smoke.
But we still hiked the first mile of the Highline Trail—yes, the one with the cable bolted into the cliff. Let’s just say: there’s a moment when the cable “runs out” and your courage tries to run out with it. 😅
Hidden Lake Overlook: Ghost Views + Bear Activity
Next up: Hidden Lake Overlook. Safer? Sure. But the lower trail was closed due to high bear activity, and the view looked like a watercolor painting left out in the rain—beautiful, eerie, and unforgettable.
And the smoke smell? Like a continuous campfire everywhere… mixed with hiking at altitude… which is how we discovered Matt can sound like Darth Vader on a trail.
Polebridge Mercantile + Classic 2020 Timing
We made it to Polebridge Mercantile (hello, legendary huckleberry bearclaw vibes) and learned quickly why locals want visitors to slow down on those dusty roads. We also found out the Northern Lights Saloon had closed one day before we arrived. Classic 2020.
The “Come Back” Moment
On our final day, something changed. The haze began to lift. Peaks started to appear. Valleys sharpened. For the first time all week, Glacier showed us a glimpse—and it honestly felt like the park whispered, “Come back when I’m ready.”
So we did.
Glacier 2024: The Redemption Trip (Rainbow Included 🌈)
In 2024, we returned—and Glacier welcomed us like an old friend who had been holding your seat the whole time.
We stayed at St. Mary’s / East Glacier KOA with wide-open views, a huge dog park for Grizzly, and the kind of amenities that feel extra amazing after a long travel day (pool + hot tubs with mountain backdrops? Yes please).
Then a storm rolled through… and as it cleared, a rainbow stretched across the campground. That was the moment we knew: this trip was going to be different.
Late August Blizzard at Logan Pass (Because Glacier)
Driving up toward Logan Pass, we ran into a full mini blizzard—snow swirling sideways, wind whipping across the road. They actually closed Logan Pass for the rest of the day, and it dumped close to a foot of snow in about an hour. And yes… this was late August. Glacier keeps you humble.
Going-to-the-Sun Road: Finally, the Masterpiece
When the storm cleared just enough, we got it: the carved cliffs, stone guardrails, those vast mountain views, and the sheer engineering masterpiece that is Going-to-the-Sun Road. Everyone should drive that road at least once in their life.
St. Mary Lake + Many Glacier Hotel Magic
We revisited St. Mary Lake in clear weather and it felt like entering a completely different world—bright glacier-blue water and sharp, majestic peaks with zero haze.
And then Many Glacier Hotel stopped us in our tracks: that Swiss-chalet look, the timber beams, the balconies, and the way the mountains reflect across the lake on calm days. We went for a quick cocktail… and accidentally stayed basically all day. (Also: huckleberry margaritas are absolutely a thing. And yes, they’re amazing.)
We also had a few laughs about bear bells vs. no bear bells, and how bear spray is “99% effective”… which naturally makes you wonder about the other 1%. (A silent review, apparently. 😬)
Chief Mountain + Running Eagle Falls
We headed toward the Canadian border, passed Babb, Montana, and took in Chief Mountain—a dramatic monolith rising out of the plains and a sacred place for the Blackfeet Nation.
Then we visited Running Eagle Falls (also called “Trick Falls” later in summer)—named for a legendary Blackfeet woman warrior, Running Eagle (Pi’tamaka). It’s one of those spots that feels peaceful and powerful at the same time.
Hidden Lake Overlook: Full Circle
Returning to Hidden Lake Overlook in 2024 felt like completing the story. The lake shimmered deep blue. Bearhat Mountain stood in full glory. It was everything 2020 promised… finally delivered.
And Then… The Northern Lights 😭✨
On our final night, Glacier surprised us with something we’d never seen before: the northern lights.
We discovered them accidentally while taking Grizzly out—totally unplanned, totally perfect. Soft green, then purple, then red… dancing across one of the darkest skies in America. It was the most unforgettable “goodbye” Glacier could have given us.
Watch the Video + Explore Our Full Playlist
If you enjoyed this story, we’d love for you to watch the full video and then keep the adventure going with our full playlist.
👉 Click here to open the full playlist on YouTube
Drop a Comment: What’s Your Favorite National Park?
We’d love to hear from you—what national park has the biggest hold on your heart? (Or which one is still sitting at the top of your bucket list?)
Thanks for traveling with us—through the smoke and into the redemption. If you want more part-time RV adventures, weekend warrior road trips, and cinematic travel stories, stick around.
Life’s an adventure… roll with it. 🚐💙